Lessons from a Roman holiday

I've been remiss in keeping this blog going over the last month or two, what with the Christmas and New Year period, my cousins wedding (congrats again Heather and Ciarán) and a general whirlwind of work and exercise blitz in order to lose the Xmas pounds, laziness set in and I stopped writing
. 
But, now back from a week in Rome, I'm rejuvenated (well, at least until I go back to work) and inspired. I've always liked Italian cooking, and incorporated many of the basics into everyday cookery. Anyone who knows me, knows I've a bit of a problem with garlic. In my opinion, you can NEVER have enough garlic. Ever. Period. This doesn't always work in favour of my love life (who likes garlic breath?) but if you can't handle the garlic addiction, then I guess you're not for me. 

Apart from garlic, basil, oregano, thyme, tomatoes (cooked) parmasean and all types of cured hams were a store cupboard staple. I'd never been the biggest fan of pasta, mainly because of it's tendency to bloat (and the Irish obsession of adding cream to every sauce that isn't tomato based) but after my trip I've learned a few things..both about food and Roman life in general. 

So, if you're ever going to spend any time in Rome, here are some tips and observations picked up by a sunburnt Irish girl abroad.

1) Rome is fabulous. (this doesn't need explanation, if you've been you'll understand, if not, book your flights now!)

2) Rome is the most policed city in Europe. Apart from the carabinieri, you have the city of Rome police, the Vatican police, Swiss guards, the army who wear navy uniform, the army who wear camouflage uniform, the army who get to wear Napoleonic hats, secret police and finally (though not strictly police) the numerous security guards on every shop and building. Funnily enough they don't seem to have traffic wardens.

3) Which brings me neatly to point number three..Driving. It's an art from and a necessary survival skill in Rome. The grace of taxi drivers swerving in and out of lanes, avoiding buses and pedestrians is an sight to behold..just don't stand around in the road to watch it. Also..crossing the road is a bit like taking your life in your hands..not quite as bad as Sicily, but still terrifying on your first day, there are no hard and fast rules. You may be on a pedestrian crossing and a car will still shoot right up to within an inch of your legs, you have a pedestrain crossing with lights..that doesn't give you protection either, a scooter will shoot of a side lane and graze your backside as it skirts dangerously close to you. TIP: hold your head up high, step right onto the road and walk it like a cat walk.

4) Taxis in Rome are funny old things. Relatively good value after a long day traipsing around historical site, beware of where you pick one up. I'm sure they're meant to have a set rate, but sometimes there will be a rouge one outside a popular momument that will trip you off. Also, 90's Britpop is huge with taxis in Rome. I don't think I've head All Saints so much since 1999. 

5) Priest like to window shop. Except its not for what you or I might shop for. But things like vestments, crucifixs and alter wine. One of the biggest photo regrets I have is not to have taken a picture of the seven or eight priests and monks checking out the newest chalice in a shop window

6) DO NOT EAT IN RESTAURANTS WHERE THE MENU IS IN ENGLISH. This goes for pretty much any country. If the locals won't eat there, neither will I. (plus they also tend to be poor quality, over-priced, reheated rubbish)

7) DO NOT EAT OUTSIDE. by this I mean, if you stop for a coffee/beer/wine, order inside at the counter and wait for it to be served. Then take a seat inside the cafe. If you sit outside, you will be paying for the service. Usually at least double the price. Yes, you will most likely be serve some kind of antipasto or nibbles but if your watching the pennies/ literally only want a drink then do like the locals and go inside (plus, most places have air conditioning so your not going to roast)

8)Italians don't seem to dress salads before they come to your table. They leave you to your own devices with the olive oil and balsamic vinegar. I don't really like it, but when in Rome. 

9) L'etto on menus means per hundred grams - useful info to know when you're ordering meat. 

10) Order cappuccino in the morning, and never after midday. The look of scorn and derision you'll get just isn't worth it. 

11) The Roman populace consider 18-20 degrees cold. Or at least it would appear that way. Wrapped up in layers of (admittedly stylish) clothing, enough for a poplar explorer, they couldn't understand why an Irish girl was wearing sun dresses every day. 

12) Don't get caught out by the new hotel tax. Its two euro per day, per person and has to be paid in cash. 

13) A lot of places outside of the tourist centre don't display menu's outside, don't be put off, this doesn't mean that they're trying to hid awful food - also, side dishes are ordered separately. To the Irish mind at least, this is unusual, as even in the most upmarket of  restaurants you're given veg with your main. When you order saltimbucco in Rome, that's exactly what you get, Veal. Nothing else.

14) For those of you with Tinder..check it out. You won't be disappointed. 

15)Pinot Grigio for some reason tastes completely different from the variety you get at home. And different in a good way. Usually I'm a red wine girl but give me a glass or two of that any time. 

16) Supermarkets don't seem to really exist in Rome, bar the odd Spar. People still seem to shop at their local butchers/delis and with good reason. The prices might be expensive, but the quality is second to none. 

17) Italian men are ridiculously stylish. I've never seen so many well dressed men in my life. This must be down to the plethora of men's clothing shops all over the city. Much more so than womans. Even my father who usually has to be dragged into a shop every two years was starting to get interested in fashion. Another week and he'd have been buying couture. 

18) It is a must to visit a food market. It would make you despair about the quality of fresh fruit and veg here in Ireland. Yes, I know, we don't have the weather to grown all year around but it really does put the limp supermarket cabbage to shame.

19) Don't even try to figure out the bus system. It's not worth the hassle.

20) And finally,a restaurant recommendation. La Familia, on Via Gaeta near the Termini is a hidden gem. Down a side street, bursting at the seem with locals, the quality, variety and service to too notch. And in case you're worried about taking a recommendation for a random internet person, this restaurant comes recommended by Paulo Tulio, Irish Italy chef, restaurateur and food critic. It's his go to place in Rome and you can see why. 

Now, after all that a recipe. After I arrived home I was feeling inspired (and hungry - a Ryanair flight that was delayed and had no food on board meant I hurtled back to the rain of Ireland tired and ravenous)
This recipe was an amalgamation of Italian flavours which you probably will have in your cupboards. The only things I had to buy was the chicken and mushrooms.

you will need:
3 chicken fillets, chopped
150g mushrooms - halved
300ml of passata (or a tin of chopped tomatoes)
dried basil, thyme, oregano and paprika
2 tsp of fig chutney
1 glass of red wine
1 tbsp of balsamic vinegar

for the bruschetta:
6 slices of medium cut ciabatta
pesto
fat garlic clove cut in half
olive oil
Mozzarella sliced thinly
small amount of Gorgonzola , crumbled

Method:
1) Preheat the oven to Gas 6
2)Heat some oil over a medium heat and toss in the chicken. Cook until golden brown, add a 1/4tsp basil, smoked paprika, oregano to the pan and toss to coat. Take off the heat.
3) In a small sauce add the rest of the ingredients (not the mushrooms). Bring to the boil and let simmer for about 10 mins until slightly reduced. 
4) Put the chicken into an oven proof dish, cover with the sauce and add the mushrooms. Put in the oven to cook for about 30 minutes. 

To make the bruschetta
1) Heat the grill to high. 
2) drizzle olive oil into the slices of bread 
3) Grill until golden brown.
4) Remove, let cool for a minute or two, then rub each slice with a piece of the garlic.
5) Smear on some of the pesto
6) Put a slice of mozzarella and some of the crumbled Gorgonzola on each slice.
7) Put under the grill again until the cheese has melted. 
8) Drizzle with some balsamic vinegar 

Serve the chicken with the sauce and the bruschetta on the side. A taste of Italy on these cold,wet Irish spring evenings.